Braiders Demand Justice: African Hair Stylists Rally in Albany for Licensing Reform

Image Source: AI

In a vibrant show of unity and cultural pride, over 65 African hair braiders, clad in colorful traditional attire, joined African Communities Together (ACT) and allies at the New York State Capitol on Tuesday, May 13, to rally and lobby for the passage of the 2025 Natural Hair Styling Bills [S.5438/A.6529].

The legislation aims to ease burdensome licensing requirements that advocates say disproportionately impact Black immigrant women.

“For government oversight to work, the underlying program must be fair, equitable, rational, and responsive,” said State Senator Cordell Cleare (D-30), co-sponsor of the Senate bill.

“Hair Braiders in my District have spoken, and I trust them to know the facts on the ground as well as the best path forward to ensure that a skilled and loving practice passed down from generation to generation is not swamped in bureaucracy.”

Currently, New York requires aspiring natural hair stylists to complete 300 hours of training, undergo two exams, navigate complex English-language forms, and pass a medical check-up — all just to braid hair legally. These hurdles, according to advocates, are unjust and ignore the lived experiences and traditional expertise of African hair braiders.

“It was amazing to see so many dedicated hair braiders come to Albany to advocate for their profession,” said Assemblymember Pamela J. Hunter (D-128). “Most of these braiders only earn when they work, which underscores how important this licensure change is to improve their occupation. Current standards are unproductively burdensome to those who have dedicated so much to this craft.”

ACT has long advocated for reform, spotlighting the issue in its 2019 report Licensing a Legacy: African Hair Braiders’ Vision for Reforming. The new bill proposes to reduce training hours from 300 to 40, require only a practical skills assessment in the applicant’s native language, and mandate that all application materials be translated to increase accessibility.

“For too long, African women hair braiders have been forced to navigate a system that doesn’t honor their craft,” said Maimouna Dieye, New York Chapter Director of ACT. “They’ve been required to complete hundreds of hours of classes and pay thousands of dollars to learn a skill they already know. The braiders in our community are not asking for special treatment. They are demanding equity and fair treatment.”

Braiders like Harlem-based Ramatoulaye Ngom shared deeply personal stories. “I have been doing this job since I arrived in America. Braiding is not something new to me, I learned how to braid since I was 12 years old in my home country,” she said. “My mother taught me how to braid by putting a dry corn in a bottle and using the leaves to learn. This job allows me to practice what I learned from my mother, and also to take care of my family.”

Another stylist, Massandje Doukoure, expressed the emotional toll of working without a recognized license: “Many of our clients assume that we do not have the license, and they mistreat us and do not show any respect to us. I was hurt once on my forehead by a customer and I was bleeding. We are asking elected officials to vote yes to the bills, which will give us some autonomy and freedom to do our job in peace.”

The proposed reforms have also received backing from broader immigrant advocacy networks.

“Our African Hair braiders have earned the right and deserve the respect to be recognized as licensed legitimate business owners and entrepreneurs,” said Robert Agyemang, Vice President of Advocacy at the New York Immigration Coalition. “Removal of language barriers and other excessive requirements will go a long way towards empowering some of our most skilled and dedicated small business owners.”

Airenakhue B. Omoragbon, New York State Policy Manager for ACT, emphasized the cultural significance of the practice: “For many women from Africa and across the Black Diaspora, hair braiding represents their womanhood, connects them to their cultures, and serves as a symbol of pride in a world that hasn’t always been kind to our hair textures.”

With an energized crowd and unified voices demanding justice, advocates say momentum is building. For many, it was their first time in the state’s capital and their first opportunity to speak directly to lawmakers. They hope it won’t be the last — and that this time, change will come.

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